Heavy Friends

 

     So, there have been some amazing waves the past couple days down at WJ. Yesterday we were privy to some chest to head-high and well beyond waves complete with stinging sleet-like back spray projected by the 30 mph + offshore winds that created some of the most sickly devastating hollow lefts we've seen in a while down there. The word "awesome" has a few different definitions (it is probably important to note here that whenever the definition of a word is given, it is without exception the definition given by the Oxford English Dictionary), and more than one can be used to describe the waves yesterday. Sure, 3.a: in weakened sense: overwhelming, staggering; remarkable, prodigious. colloq. (orig. and chiefly U.S.), describes our the waves, but so does 2: Inspiring awe; appalling, dreadful, weird (except for maybe the "weird" part, but even that...). These waves were heavy. It was an intense privilege to be able to see these waves, let alone ride them. 

     Ryan, still on the sidelines (he's just come off) from a debilitating injury in Puerto Rico, was able to get some photos of us our there. None of these do the waves justice: they are just stills of roaring energy. But still, some cool shots. 

      I believe these are of myself. I'm really just going off of stance and what Ryan told me.

      Can't tell who these one is, but the waves are pretty nice.

      A sandpiper. But yeah, so yesterday was very, very nice. Fortunately, the swell stuck around for today, and I was able to get out this morning before work. At first it was just myself and this seal that kept on watching me, wondering what I was probably. Then one other guy came out. The waves: waist to chest, glassy lefts, and lining up nice. After I caught a bunch and the tide filled in a lot, it was time to go to work, and I waited for a wave. Then one came: a head high left that I was in the perfect spot for, between WJ and the rockpile, and as the only other guy out cheered on I got it and screamed down the line on SF 001, barrel overhead and chasing hard, holding high lines on the twin keels, the wave walling up in front of me and me barely able to make it to the end, but I did, way down the beach. It was without a doubt one of my favorite waves in the past few months, maybe this whole winter season. That kind of ride is why I surf.

                                                                                                                                                 Blue cheer.

    Now, hopefully there will be some swell left for tomorrow morning. 

     On another note: my friend Pat has started up two new interesting blogs: one, called Casualties of the Loudness War, is a music blog, and Pat definitely knows a thing or two or a million about music, so check it out. The other, called Step 1: Make Use of Your Time, has a pretty unique concept and seems like it will be really interesting to follow. Check that out also.