Great swell we just had. It felt good to get to the beach super early again, high with hopes of magnificent surf. Sometimes it happened, sometimes not, but it was mostly fun. It also felt good to ache from surfing actual waves again, at least "actual" compared to the swells we've had lately: these waves had some power, especially the first couple days. Now it looks like another coming maybe for next weekend, which is wonderful news. If only I could get ol' Frank's board done before. We'll see...
Wednesday, September 12, 2012
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