Thanks to ABC for the only video footage of me surfing. The only problem? "The surf was an early attraction for those trying to ride the big waves..." Trying? Wow. That hurts, ABC, that hurts. At 1:35:
The height of this swell may be unrideable (not to mention inaccessible), but we got a good 7 hours of surf today in some really, really fun chest to head high surf. It was the first good swell I have surfed my newly-repaired new fish, and so far it lives up to all my expectations. Can't wait for more.
Be safe this weekend.
One of my consistently favorite Dylan songs, off of his perfect album Blood on the Tracks.
Friday, August 26, 2011
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