Saturday, September 4, 2010

Good Times, Bad Times...

     ...today I've had my share. Sub-par softies in the morning at Holyoke, followed by superb chest to head high bombs rolling in giving barrels at Sandal for a few hours, then some lackluster landlubber-style "surfing" in the afternoon, which was partially the fault of the waves getting whacked by the strengthening wind, and partially the fault of myself, who forgot how to surf between A.M. and P.M.Oh well, tomorrow's another day.
     Been surfing my 5'5" fish exclusively recently, and so far it's held up in some really big stuff, and I've made tons of steep drops that last September I thought were impossible on a board with such little rocker. Turns out it was only my surfing that had to catch up. One thing that bugs me about the general public's notion of fish-type surfboards is that they are meant for and great for small surf. Not true. While they may work well on smaller surf due to the speed the design itself generates, they also work well, and were originally conceived for, much larger surf. Here's a picture from Point Loma, San Diego, where the design originated and evolved:
     Don't know if that guy is on a fish, but that's a pretty good size wave. It just drives me crazy when you hear, "Oh man, it's gonna get small duuuuuude, looks like I'll have to bust out the fish, brah." Not true. I've decided I'm going to use my fish in bigger and bigger surf until it proves it can't handle it. Maybe I'll never surf anything else. Probably not.
     Some more pictures from today, with film pictures coming soon.
Two of Frank.
Pre-dawn fish nose. 

     Led Zeppelin, "Good Times Bad Times," from the first track from the band's initial aural assault, Led Zeppelin. I would say this album is probably my favorite album from the band, and if you haven't listened to it in a while, you should. Around 1:30 on this track is where your mind explodes if you love rock 'n' roll. 

1 comment:

  1. Yeah, my mind explodes when I hear ANY LZ.

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