In the air there's a feeling of Christmas...

This was Thursday afternoon. It's always bigger than it looks from the beach. The drift was strong but got a really nice long overhead right at lightspeed. It was definitely the biggest wave I've caught on SF 002 and the speed caught me off guard, especially since I'm always a little shaky backside. It was fun though, and made the whole session worthwhile. After the third walk back up the beach and drift, I look behind me inside and all of a sudden there are about 10 - 15 guys, right there, where before there weren't. I don't know where they came from but after that I knew I had to go. I can't take crowds like that, especially when the wave was only breaking really good right off the jetty. Oh well. It was fun.

I've been meaning to take the old black and white SLR out and mess around with it again, and I figured this blog would be a good occasion for it. So I did. I really like messing around with it. The pictures just have a feel to them that you lose with a digital camera. Plus, I like the anticipation of taking them and then having to wait to get the roll developed, as opposed to the instant gratification of the digital camera. Of course, when you get your prints back and only 12 of the 24 exposures come back, and you know that some of the ones that were lost were really good or at least interesting or at least you wanted to see how they came out, it's kind of a let down. I think there's something wrong with the camera. We'll see with this next roll. Anyway, here are some more pictures.

Those stupid lines in these pictures are the result of the scanner, not the camera. Surf tomorrow morning, hopefully, because it's looking pretty flat for the week after that. I've got the spray gun stuff though, so hopefully I can begin practicing with that and get that blank painted this week, and maybe glassed within the next two, because I'm itching to ride it. Picked up a bunch of ornaments and lights and things today and just watched A Muppet Christmas Carol and now it's starting to feel like Christmas. I think the warm weather we've been having made it feel less so. But tonight we got flurries and a few even stuck. It's a marshmallow world in the winter....